The Magazine For Slot Car Enthusiasts
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8/21/06
The HO World International Fray Track
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Available to you
Building the track

This is going to be a quick and dirty How-To on setting up a marvelous routed Fray track. Initially I will be explaining how I built the table, and then I will get into the wiring and screwing the track down.

I asked Brad Bowman, Brad's HO Track, the premier track builder of the world, to help me. I presented him with a design, which he quickly altered to remove many of the mistakes laymen tend to include, and ended up with the track you see here. This will be called the International Fray Track, and will be available to you.

After 44 years of running on black plastic in my home, I finally decided to switch to a routed track. The transition will be strange, I expect. I had a lot of Lock & Joiner, too, so the tracks I built were pretty amazing. Six lane, 75 feet, and lots of turns. Most tracks included eighty 12" radius curves. The table was 14' X 6.5'.

If there were advantages to the old black track it was it's ability to be changed as often as one liked. With the amount of track I had, there were few limitations, and there was always the custom pieces you could cobble, to add more flexibility. But the part I liked the best was that it was a throw back to my youth. This was the stuff I grew up with, and I had a thousand pieces of it.

Yet, after being a participant in races all over the country, the writing on the wall was becoming very clear. Many of The Big Boys were now demanding routed tracks. So, after a little consideration, I decided to eBay all my black plastic, bite the bullet, and go with continuous rail. I also thought I would chronicle my experiences in these pages.

It occurred to me that I should redesign the table. The one I had was made of metal studs, and was very strong, but it was also very heavy. With ripped plywood studs I could reduce the weight considerably. It made it a lot easier to store the table on it's side. Basically, I ripped 3/4" plywood into 3" strips, and used those for the frame. The sides were 1" X 8" fir, and the deck was 1/2" plywood. I added a cantilevered ledge that extended beneath the table, as nailers for the folding legs, for driver's stations, and to make the whole unit more rigid.

So, here is the process for building this thing, soup to nuts. Start by getting two sheets of 3/4 plywood, and rip 19 3" wide strips, the long way. This will be the frame of the table. Assemble them as shown in the picture (R), so that the dimensions are 6'-7" X 14'. Use a mastic wherever the pieces butt, and pre-drill and screw together.

Then, get 4 sheets of 1/2" plywood. This will be the table top fit them to cover the frame. Again, mastic and screw down. Then, rip two sheets of 1/2" plywood in 17" widths, for a ledge, and for braces for the legs to screw onto. Mastic and screw. Do a little planning and you can probably figure a way to rip all this, and save a sheet or two. To save even more, a sill for the drivers stations is not necessary.

Note: If you want to use 2 x 4 framing material, you will add considerable weight to the design, but if it's static on your floor, that won't matter. My track resides in a garage and I must put it against a wall after races, so weight was an issue.

After the box was built, I screwed on 1" x 8" boards around the perimeter of the table, as a barrier, to keep cars from flying off the table. I set it flush to the bottom, so it came about 4" above the table surface.

To finish off the table I chose an interior gloss paint in the color shown. Since it was going down on raw wood, I thought that a primer was called for. It made the finish coat go on smooth and easy. It took 2 quarts of primer, and a gallon of paint.

There is one feeling that just can't be put into words. Two actually. The first is when Brad gets you on the phone and says, "It's done!" You get a twinge down low, if you know what I mean. The second rush is when he sends you the first picture of your new track. I'm expecting two more rushes. One, when the package arrives, and two, when it's all screwed down, and I'm running the first lap. But I'm getting ahead of myself.

One of the choices you get to make is type of legs. Since I need to raise the table up against the wall, I chose to go with four folding legs, available at Home Centers, as seen in the picture below. If you want to go with more permanent legs, yet maybe want it mobile, design a set of sawhorse-like legs that run 5 feet across, and nestle between the cross members, but that the cross members, not the table top ply, accept the load. For absolute strength, bolt six 4 X 4's to the cross members.

One thing about these metal legs. They are made of tubing that can be cut with a pipe cutter. If you want to lower the table for better visibility, or easier spotting, these make it easy.

After the table is all constructed, and the legs of choice in place, you will have to start preparing for the electrical. Your first choices will be about where to put the driver stations, and what type of hookups to use.

We chose to get 1/4" threaded stock, and cut 2 2.5" pieces for each station. We held it down with 2 large washers, and 2 bolts, leaving enough underneath to add a third bolt, which will lock down the wires. I drilled 2 holes through the shelf, just large enough to pass the thread stock. Other options are to use 1/4" mono RCA jacks. One could also use a combination of the two, so people with plugs would not need to adapt. Place the stations either all on one side, or at locations equidistant, around the table.

Now you have to wire the whole track. The best way to do this is to use color coded braided wire, at least 18 gauge, or if you use single color, mark it some way, either with colored tape, or make tabs with masking tape, and write the lane distinction on it, then wrap around the wires in adequate intervals.

Now, let's figure out how the wiring works. The idea is simple. A positive side of the power supply goes to a rail, of one lane of the track, then from the other rail of that lane, to one side of the controller. The next wire goes from the other side of the controller, back to the negative side of the power supply. The only thing to note is that you need to use the rail from the same side of each lane for positive, and the other corresponding rails of all lanes for the negative. We are not going to discuss brakes here.

Except for the addition of a lap counting system, we are now ready to bolt down the track pieces. You will have to decide if you prefer elevation changes and banking, or not. With the CNC work that Brad does, the fit is perfect, and that is of great consequence.

I supported the elevated sections with 1/4" plywood, and strips of 1/2" plywood, 1" wide, first one, then two, etc, to create an elevation I then traced out the track section I was elevating on the 1/4" ply, and jigsawed it out. Cut it so that you do not come beyond the edge of the track.

Next, I had to attack the sides of the bridge. I did this by using 1/4" thick, expanded foam PVC, and laying it next to the track. I then placed a pencil on a 1/2" piece of ply, for a fence, and ran it against the PVC, while on top of the track. Then cut with a jigsaw. Glue this to the side of the track with a thin line of medium thick "Super glue" that you find in hobby shops. Make short runs of no more than a foot or so, and make certain it is pushed up tightly to the track. Then spray with an accelerator for instant bonding.

Some of you like scenery. I'm not a big fan of that, especially when I like the racing aspect of the hobby so much, and I know that even with best intentions and design, pieces get torn off in the heat of competition. Adding logos, and maybe some cars and people in the infield might work for your purposes.

So, what makes Brad Bowman tracks so special, and what was my experience with assembly? Since I got mine with the rails installed, I will go from that perspective. First, fit and finish is superb, and perfect. For instance, the rail height is as even as I have ever seen. When installing the pig tail for the wire taps, Brad drills through the rail and solders. This is a large effort, but makes for an excellent and durable tap. Second, he puts in a tongue and groove on each end, and the fit is seamless (sic), and so well done that the cars can run either direction, with no adjustment. Lastly, when the pieces are assembled, even before screwing down, the ends butt together with no gaps. Perfect fit.

So, as I suggested above, the track and components are available to you. Read on to find out more


Official Products of HO World

These are products we have tested through the years, and meet the professional standards for any racer. The sellers of all these items are outstanding with regard to customer service, and you may feel comfortable in dealing with them.


HOW Official Fray Track (complete story above)

If you would like to purchase this exceptionally designed and built track, we have made it available to you. It will come with all grooves precision cut on a CNC machine. Cost is $1495. Then we give you enough rail and lock wire for the entire track. We also offer additional services:

1. We will rail and install pigtails for you, with lock wire color of your choice. $600

2. We can tongue and grove the ends for perfect fit. $60
3. We will cut in the slots for the reed switches, and include the reeds. $30

Note: When installing the rails your self, we highly recommend water soluble and/or slower drying glues

Timing System

For me, TrakMate, in it's old DOS version was the premiere software, because it worked, it was inexpensive, and most importantly, it had a Fray option for team racing. The newest Windows version is 4.0. It exceeds everything that the DOS version did. The best part is the new serial interface, so that it is easy to run on any computer, including a laptop.

Features
• Supports Lap and Timed Races and Lane Rotation
• Supports up to 60 racers in round robin format
• Works with Desk Tops and laptops
• Hardware insures accurate timing to .001 seconds even with background applications running or with program minimized
• Connects to COM port leaving your printer port free
• Sound -"Ready GO", "1 Lap remaining" etc. 
• Supports 1- 8 Lanes
• Relay to control track power
• Sorts racers according to position during race   
• Displays - Lap Times, Best Lap, Median, lag/interval time between racers
• Print summary and lap times
• Enter racers names only once
• Change type of data being displayed by clicking on heading. i.e.. MPH or Best Lap

New features in 4.0
• Timer between heats
• Championship mode
• Powerful Custom Rotation Editor  

A few things set this system apart, and first is Daniel Groulx's willingness to help, including a toll free number, 877-SLOTCAR, and an affinity for the racer who might need an alteration in the application. If it can be done, Daniel will oblige.

The hookup on my track was done with reed switches, which Daniel offers, but he also offers infrared bridges. Dead tracks will also work. Make certain you choose the proper setting in the program.


Power Supply

The power supply for the track came from AG&G Hobby and Electronics. This one was also an easy choice. Versatile, powerful, simple to hook up, and you can't beat the price or the service. This monster was the only option for my track.

Model # PS-10 M Adjustable 0-20 VDC 10Amp Continuous

Input 117 VAC, 60 Hz, 6Amp

Output 0-20 VDC, Selectable in 3 ranges 0 – 7 VDC, 7 – 14 VDC, & 14 – 20 VDC@ 10 amps

Features This regulated and filtered linear power supply features a lighted On/Off Rocker switch, short circuit fused and overload protection. 0.1 % load regulation. It features both analogue volt and amp meters along with a fine adjustment knob and LED overload indicator. Also includes heavy duty heat sinks and a convenient built in carrying handle. Model #PS-10M is U.L approved.

Unit carries a 1 year Manufacturers warranty.

Alan Galinko has been selling these for years, and has sold hundreds. No one complains. They have found their way into homes and retail outlets around the world.

Note: Do not use this unit without having a fused line to the track.
One of the more than 20 layouts I built from 1987 to 20004.
The Fray International Track.
International Fray Variation (below) may be substituted for an additional $50, or get both interchangeable pieces for an additional $500.
Joint on the long sides